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The final part of the production process is how individual menko were cut from their master sheet after printing. All the rikishi series menko were die-cut, which is essentially the same process as how monetary coins are made. A big stamp came down and stamped out the menko, but left parts of the master sheet as unusable. It also tended to produce off center menko as is seen with many of the menko produced in this fashion. This technique was more costly than the second method that produced the simple rectangular shaped menko seen on 95% of all sets. Rectangular shapes were relatively easy to make, as all that was needed was essentially a huge paper cutter to cut stacks of master sheets into individual menko. A variation on this method that the companies used was to print the master sheets and then sell them intact or include them as prize sheets where the kids had to cut them apart themselves. This was a further attempt at reducing production costs, as no cutting was required at the factory. One result of this, though, Three examples of cutting production: Sheet, Die-Cut and Hand-Cut
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is
that many menko that survive today are those cut from sheets by the
kids, and so have many wavy edges and are off-centered to some
degree. I have yet to notice an effect on game play from the
different cutting methods.
Now that we’ve talked about the front of the menko, let’s move to the back. The backs of sumo menko came in all sorts of themes such as Chinese Zodiac signs, war images or outer space drawings, but the two basic types that are consistent on all the menko after 1950 are the Gu-Choki-Pa (Rock-Scissors-Paper) mark and Fighting Numbers. These were used in the different variations of menko game rules. Instead of slamming the menko on the ground trying to flip the opponent’s menko over, the kids could simply pull out different menko and use the Gu-Choki-Pa marks to outplay their opponents. The Fighting Numbers were also used to play a variation of menko. See last issue’s Sumo Menko Basics article for more details on the variation of these games. The emergence of the Gu-Choki-Pa marks on sumo menko is first seen at the beginning of the 1940s and is standard until 1964, but the 1930s menko only have Fighting Numbers. I’m still looking into this to see if this was an across the board menko trend or just on sumo menko. Menko backs are very important in set identification, which we’ll discuss in further detail in the next issue of SFM. For those of you interested in collecting, I’ve tried to provide a good starting point at www.sumo menko.com, where there are numerous photos of different menko and checklists for the set collectors. I’ve also tried to provide a general overview of all things sumo menko on the front. The big thing will be finding a good source of sumo menko. There is almost always an auction or two on eBay from four or five different sellers. This is a great |
Examples of Gu-Choki-Pa marks and Fighting Numbers on back of menko
place to start building up your collection at reasonable prices. Rob at Prestige Collectables, www.prestige collectibles.com, has an online auction up every couple of months with some unique and sometimes very hard to find sumo menko. There are also a couple of random online stores in the US that sell one or two sumo menko, so just Google “sumo menko” or “sumo card” and you might be able to find a good buy out there. In the next issue of SFM we’ll discuss set identification techniques along with the lottery aspect of sumo menko. I’ll also highlight a few of the sets during this time along with the rikishi that made them so popular. Until then, cheers….
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